第十卷第  101年4月15日出刊  April 2012

 
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柬埔寨志工行

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柬埔寨志工行
 
   

CAMP BENG MEALEA

A Weeklong Journey in the Kingdom of Cambodia

國際志工--柬埔寨一週心得

12A 鄧寬哲Anthony Deng

January 30, 2012, 1 PM; sunny, cloudless skies, and 35 degrees Celsius…Wait, what? As I got off the plane, I noticed the luscious green fauna dotted around the small landing strip. Above me, a clear sky made way for warm sunbeams to touch my face. Almost immediately, I noticed the lack of humidity. I was no longer in Taiwan: this was the Siem Reap International Airport. Welcome to the Kingdom of Cambodia, land of the Khmer.

This past winter, IBSH guidance counselor Mr. Eric Swan took 13 students and first grade homeroom teacher Ms. Hannah Miller on a weeklong community service trip to Cambodia. I was one of the fortunate members aboard this ride. In six days' time, the fifteen of us helped out with construction in the community and experienced a brand new culture. We helped a small village 77 kilometers away from Siem Reap, named Beng Mealea. Later on, we toured a few of the famous, beautiful temples of the Angkor Wat region.

   

After we sorted out our visas, our camp manager brought us to a local restaurant in Siem Reap for lunch. Here, we had our first taste of Khmer cuisine. If you've ever tasted Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, you will notice a similarity between the three—Cambodian food will definitely strike a chord in the heart of any lover of Southeast Asian food. Notable dishes we enjoyed included spring rolls, traditional curry (my favorite!), sweet and sour bell peppers, and vegetable soup.The general ingredients of Cambodian food are similar to that of Taiwan's; their unique flavor comes from the use of spices once imported from India.

1 USD is equivalent to 4000 riels, the local currency of Cambodia.They are nationally interchangeablebecause the UN injected large amounts of USD into the economy after years of civil war. We were informed that the campsite would have "drinking water," but not properly treated "mineral water;" so many of us purchased bottled water at a local mini-supermarket.

The long bus ride that followed brought us to Beng Mealea, where we were introduced to a village whose homes are all open-air, made of wooden planks and poles. Most families that lived along the main road sold food, drinks, and other small things like tobacco. One could argue that each home was a convenience store in and of itself.

As we carried our luggage off our bus, we passed a Buddhist monastery, where several monks dressed in orange cloths were watching us. We learned to say "chumree-uhp soo-uh”, which is a formal greeting in Khmer. There were several little children watching us as well; a phrase resembling "so sly" meant an informal "hi". All around us, we could see many chicken, dogs, piglets, and other animals freely wandering in the open.

The campsite consisted of several main things: a power generator, an eight-stall shower house, a kitchen, a main dining area, 3 large tent-huts, and a toilet that doubled as a compost collector—a creative and environmentally friendly way to utilize the toilet. Showering was also quite different, as we were limited to small trickles of running water used to fill large wash basins. Clothes were washed by hand and hung to dry nearby. Large urns contained water for hand washing, brushing teeth, and other toiletries.

The first afternoon, we went on a walking tour of the nearby Beng Mealea temple, a 12th century Angkorian Hindu/Buddhist temple recently discovered by French archeologists. Large trees grew out of the temple architecture, a recurring natural pattern in present-day Cambodian temples. The front entrance of the temple has been demolished by years of warfare, and as of today, has not yet been restored. It is of one of the lesser known temples built by King Suryavarman II.

Every lunch and dinner at the campsite would consist of several recurring elements: a large mound of rice, cooked vegetables, a little meat, and fresh soup, usually doubling as a curry. One particular lunch had pure cooked ginger as the vegetable, which left an unforgettable spicy tang in our mouths. Mouth-watering fruit always followed meals, be it watermelon, pineapple, mango, or banana.

There was always an event after dinner. The local camp volunteers would teach us about what they do, about Cambodia's history, or even how traditional Khmer dancing worked. Other times, we sang popular songs in English, accompanied by a keyboard and guitar courtesy of the camp manager. 10 PM was lights out.

 

We woke up at 6 AM every day; early mornings in Cambodia are relatively cool in the dry season, usually cold enough to call for a light jacket. Breakfast at the camp generally consisted of jam or butter on bread, with condensed-milk-added Milo on the side. One particular breakfast was stir-fried noodles instead, along with not-so-hot chili sauce.

Our work in the village consisted of two separate areas: the village communal center and the village elementary school. On day one of work, everyone worked at the communal center. The objective was to help build an extension of the main building. The construction consisted of filling in an already-completed brick foundation with soil, then nailing in wooden poles to serve as the extension's outer support. We transferred dirt from a prepared mound using buckets, and we quickly formed a production chain as some people shoveled dirt into the buckets, as others passed the buckets to the to-be foundation. Then, in order to firmly even out the foundation, we passed water from the nearby temple's moat to pour on the dirt. In the days following, Mr. Swan would take five of us to this center to continue with building the supports.

Meanwhile, Ms. Miller took the rest of us, myself included, to the elementary school. The objective was to assist in the construction of a kitchen, so that students may enjoy healthier meals at school if they can't go home (or if they're orphaned). In addition, we had to sandpaper and wash the window panes of one of the school's buildings, since it was in need of a new paint job. All day, we would scrub away at the window panes, trying to get rid of the old layer of paint, so that it wouldn't flake off as new paint went on later. As we worked, dismissed students gathered around us, watching in fascination at the sight of foreigners sanding their window panes; some even picked up sandpaper to join us. To our amazement, some of them spoke English quite well, and one or two even spoke Mandarin! After our thorough scrub job, we hauled water from a nearby pond to rinse the panes. Using rags and watering cans, we soaked the panes clean, and then left them out to dry.

There was one time when we were all given hoes to plow over a patch of land in the school courtyard, to turn it into a garden. Later on, we were to work on the kitchen. Five of us boys had to haul a cart filled with sand from the campsite to the kitchen construction site, while the girls helped nail planks into a pre-existing foundation.

On the final half-day of work, our camp manager taught us how to make seed balls: balls of clay, dirt, and cow manure encapsulating a few plant seeds. This procedure, part of a sustainable ecological design system called “permaculture”, seeks to assist in agricultural cultivation in more nutrient-and-resource-deprived ecologies. The seeds inside the ball are enriched by the manure and protected from less-ideal environments until the time is right for it to grow. Later, we coated the schoolyard trees in white paint, a method of repelling insects. Many students joined us in this activity, picking up brushes and rollers to help us out. This final event concluded the community service part of our trip; and after lunch, we packed up, and set out to return to Siem Reap.

The final leg of our trip was centered on Siem Reap and Angkor. That evening, we got to watch a traditional Khmer dance performance during dinner. The following day, also our last full day in Cambodia, we toured the famous Angkor complex. We admired the style of Khmer architecture, the intricate designs etched into every inch of sandstone, and the statues carved to incredible detail. We toured the Ta Prohm, the Angkor Wat—resting place of Suryavarman II and national symbol of Cambodia—and Angkor Thom, a grand city that millions lived it, featuring a multitude of quadruple-faced Buddha towers. At night, we had fun in Siem Reap's Old Market area, featuring pubs, restaurants, and shops of all sorts; it was here that we purchased our souvenir t-shirts.

For the sake of brevity, I have omitted many details from this writing. A blessing ritual from a Buddhist monk, our experiences of shopping for coconuts, hanging window panes, trying to haggle in the Old Market, and riding a boat on the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia were all fun experiences we are never going to forget. I frequently tell others that this experience in Cambodia is the best decision I've made in my life so far. It was an amazing, eye-opening experience that the fifteen of us will treasure forever. It was truly a trip made to uncompromisingly to help others.

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