我的海上「壯遊」記－行萬里路－四個月遊歷四大洲

雙語部 2007 校友 朱節勻

炎熱的六月，我跟媽媽手牽著手在南寮的「海天一線」散步，享受著濕黏的海風吹撫肌膚；那是種獨屬於新竹的親切感。遠望海、天、夕陽交接之處，一艘輪船從金黃色的「蛋黃」前滑過。看著看著，我突然覺得身體開始晃動，彷彿又回到了那艘載著我航行四個月、橫跨半個地球的海上大學 – The Scholar Ship。

回想高中三年，課業的壓力，常常令我忘了人生的目的；原本的活力與熱情逐漸流失，日子一天天的混過去，我覺得自己是一隻「訓練有素」，只會背書考試的「狗」。

幸運的是，一個不一樣的機會出現了，The Scholar Ship！徵得父母同意，我決定遠離既定的模式，用不同的方式學習。在接下來的四個月，我造訪了三大海／洋（地中海、大西洋、太平洋）和九個港口（雅典，里斯本，巴拿馬， 厄瓜多爾，大溪地，奧克蘭，雪梨，上海，香港）－ 行萬里路！當我們在海上航行時，就是（盡量）「讀萬卷書」的時候了。

希臘 雅典

揉著「 坐扁的屁股 」，在踏出飛機場的一?那，雅典的蔚藍天空和清新空氣立刻讓我神清氣爽。在餐廳裡，耳邊混雜著輕快的希臘音樂和大嗓門的希臘語對話，我吃著健康的地中海料理－橄欖油，羊奶乳酪，青翠的沙拉。在雅典娜神殿和許多已成廢墟的古蹟前，我想起課本上讀過的歷史故事。在Piraeus 港口，我登上了Oceanic II，The Scholar Ship； 共有來自五十個國家、兩百多個學生一起航向這個愉快的旅程。

葡萄牙 里斯本

航行過了地中海和濃霧瀰漫的非洲直布羅陀海峽， 初嘗令人「作嘔 」 的海上暴風雨後， 終於抵達葡萄牙的首都，里斯本。

City tour參觀了自由廣場Praca da Liberdade、波特大教堂Se Catedral等處及舊城區。最奇妙的是竟然看到了舊金山的金門大橋橫跨在lisbon river 上！原來，里斯本參考了舊金山這個同樣地震不斷、丘陵起伏的城市，建造了這座金門大橋的「分身」。我們在演奏著 fado 的傳統建築中，吃著香噴噴的現烤麵包，用起司配上一杯香甜濃郁的當地紅酒 port wine，真是美味無比。在里斯本的瓷磚博物館，瞭解了歷年的瓷磚藝術演變，我們也彩繪自己的瓷磚，留下對里斯本的美好記憶。在里斯本大學，我們聆聽了關於「 歐盟對於葡萄牙的貿易和經濟影響」，對這個「十七世紀的海上霸主」的今日有了初步了解。

巴拿馬

船抵達巴拿馬立刻就要橫渡連接大西洋和太平洋的巴拿馬運河；船隻在這裡「爬樓梯」過河，運河上的三道大型水閘形成一個水梯，大幅縮短全球運輸的時間；是二十世紀的工程壯舉。

Conflict studies的同學下船後前往巴拿馬最北部的省份，訪問原住民部落；進入熱帶雨林，投宿在以環保概念打造的旅店（ecolodge）； 也有機會與當地官員對談。 在顛簸的巴士上，大家更是熱烈討論原住民權益與全球化的影響，還有政府刻意忽視的居民權益。

厄瓜多爾

厄瓜多爾的港口 Guayaquil，空氣中塵土飛揚。花了一整天才找到一家願接受旅行支票的銀行；排隊時，為了感謝陪我找遍Guayaquil銀行的墨西哥朋友，我給他一個熱情的擁抱，沒想到竟有兩位帶步槍的武警走過來，用西班牙文對我的朋友說了一大串！原來是厄瓜多爾竟有「銀行裡不能擁抱 」的規定，真是 cultural surprise ！（當時厄瓜多爾政治情況不穩定，有大規模的示威遊行。新上任的領導者獨裁， 不讓我們訪問某些人，因此我們在當地的行程臨時被迫修改。與朋友分享我的銀行經驗時，大家開玩笑說：這是獨裁政府新的壓迫性政策呢！)

Conflict Studies 在厄瓜多爾的研習主題是：人口輸出國的移民問題—國家總收入中極高比例都是靠著國外的人民寄錢回家。我們在當地訪問了幾個有家人移民到西班牙的家庭，也跟移民局官員們討論大量人口輸出的政策和看法。從海上巡邏隊的隊長口中得知， 由海上偷渡進美國邊境的厄瓜多爾人們非常多，但其路程無比的艱辛危險。

在此， 我們發動了全船募款， 經由當地的非營利組織幫助一個單親媽媽和他的三個年幼子女蓋一間簡單、遮風避雨的小屋。城市邊緣的貧民窟中還有許多年輕、需幫助的家庭。長期的協助從教育年輕家庭開始，這些非營利組織教導他們做生意、儲蓄的概念。力量雖薄弱，但他們系統性的定期勘察，是非常有前瞻性的一群熱血志工。

大溪地

在路地上，玩得瘋，學得也起勁。回到船上卻要面對期中考！ 到達下一個的港口—奧克蘭需要兩周，教授們趁機大出作業，讓我們徹夜無眠的打報告、寫論文。路途遙遠，船又剛好需要補給油料、食物，因此就在中途的太平洋島嶼—大溪地停留兩天。期中考後的休息，去玻里尼西亞 French Polynesia 自然再適合不過了－在此可以嚐嚐當地的啤酒、看看在港口裡西班牙「海上海軍學院」的帥哥！

大溪地天空清澈、陽光熱情；走下舷梯聽到南洋樂手的演奏，彷彿置身熱帶天堂。大溪地是發展健全的觀光勝地，物價高，因此居民似乎只要擺出紀念品，錢就會源源不絕的入袋。去銀行換錢時，大家都以為櫃台人員跟我們開玩笑，因為當地錢幣的質感像彩色版的「大富翁」，銅板又輕又大，跟玩具差不多。

這個「熱帶天堂」可是名不虛傳！熱情的居民不厭其煩的帶路、讓我們搭便車，讓我們找到一片未受污染、只有居民知道的沙灘！

水不是普通的清澈，山不是普通的綠，水中的魚不是普通的多，天空更不是普通的艷藍！棕梠樹、椰子與小草屋—旅遊雜誌中才看得到的景象，在這裡卻是多麼稀鬆平常。傻瓜相機隨便拍都拍出像是專業編輯過的照片！

紐西蘭 奧克蘭

船上的同學連絡了當地的朋友，帶我們去奧克蘭，看遍景點；去世界知名的火山口 Rotorua 泡火山溫泉，吃毛利料理，看著滿身刺青的原住民舞蹈、表演。更是不放過在「 sky diving」的首都跳傘的機會；聽到飛機螺旋槳轉動的聲音，我們四個穿著跳傘服的女生興奮極了。當飛機到達預定的高度時，不知道機門甚麼時候打開了，一轉眼，砰！被推到機外！空氣在耳邊颼颼作響，臉部的肌肉頓時痲痹—空降的速度真是讓我全身熱血沸騰！ 正享受著腎上腺素的快感時，身邊的教練拉開降落傘，讓我無重力的飄浮在空中。 睜大眼睛，那景致真是美極了。

澳洲 雪梨

澳洲三天後就到了，但在這卻不能完全放鬆。學期接近尾聲，各科老師一一的交代期末論文，登陸後得蒐集資料、作研究。媽媽與我在當地會合，因此決定不走遠，在海港邊住下，隨性的以超市烤雞果腹。

最先就是去參觀雪梨歌劇院。沒想到，華麗的歌劇院設計是多麼偶然的被選中，建造過程拖了許多年，建築師又受了不少委屈。去了這麼多地方後，我深刻的瞭解各地美麗景觀背後的努力，更加激勵了我追尋壯志的心。

雪梨還有另一個地標：海港大橋Sydney Harbor Bridge。每年慶祝西洋新年時，雪梨海港大橋的煙火肯定是最精彩的；此外，當局也開放營業，讓有膽量的遊客攀爬登上全世界最長的單體大橋！喜歡嘗鮮的我當然不會錯過這樣的活動，參加了夜間攀爬海港大橋，順便欣賞雪梨夜景。

上海

接下來海上的兩個半禮拜是最折磨人的！好像沒過多久，竟到了學期末！半夜販賣部關門前會有大批的學生湧入購買提神飲料、宵夜。幾十頁的論文不以為怪，為了減壓我會帶著書籍到甲板上看海、聽浪花讀書。趕完作業的凌晨，Oceanic II 沿著黃埔江，到達了大家最期待的上海。

因為Conflict studies 這科系的性質， 很難避免文革、西藏、台灣等較敏感議題，因此演講的教授都必須登船授課，以免在陸地上受到「當局」的關切。參觀行程也只選商業上的衝突，瞭解了浦東的商城開發區、新天地計畫區，談到當地居民遷移、釘子戶之類的問題。原計劃中包含中共當局目前塑造出的主要紅火議題：與日本二戰時的衝突與凌虐。然而，到了南京紀念館卻不准進入，說是正處七十週年，有特別的記者會（我們心想：在校方安排行程時，為甚麼沒有事先告知？）。

香港終點站。船上的人都依依不捨。短短四個月，我從沒有感覺如此的自在、真實過。多元的背景似乎創造出了一種新的第三文化，緊密的連結著這些獨特的個體。大家把握機會，一起體驗香港的各種可能。跟著來自香港的同學，用香港的玩樂方式度過最後一夜－造訪凌晨茶餐廳後，大家滿足的回到船上，領取結業證書，各奔前程。

後記

我喜歡這種生動有趣又有效率的學習。

兩百多個學生分成十個 Residential Communities，定期聚會，討論如何跟來自不同文化背景的學生相處及互相學習。教授們分別來自世界各地的大學，課程包含國際貿易、國際通訊、國際關係、衝突研究、世界藝術與文化、sustainable development…等等。不同年齡、學術、文化和專業的人齊聚一堂時擦出的火花，使得每堂課的討論都變得非常多元、有深度。我修的International Security，因為上課時同學們總是對國際關係激烈辯論與分享，使得這門課成為我的最愛！

回到船上，各個 learning circle 和residential community 會與大家分享在岸上的見聞；教授們也將所經之地的相關議題融入課程之中。不同領域的學生在相互切磋後，看到了各國更整體的狀況。必修課程Intercultural Communication 跨文化溝通則是對自己最有幫助的門課。來自不同文化的同學們溝通理解方式各有差異，造成誤會的可能增加。有了這堂課的解析，大家變得更體諒、更敏銳，可說是收穫極多的一堂課！

四個月的時間不長，但這將是我畢生難忘的一段學習經驗。

The oceans have always held great wealth. Whether it be 3000 years ago with Phoenician triremes plying the seas, hawking their wares, or massive supertanker ocean drillers, searching for black gold in the current age, the great expanses of water has always fascinated humanity. However, the most precious commodity is that which is immaterial, which I found on The Scholar Ship. I was drilling in the oceans, but for something much more precious than oil.

Composing ambitious college application essays the year before had given me a clarity I never had before, and led me to learn specifically what I wanted, or more like, what I didn’t want. I didn’t want to aimlessly pursue higher education. I didn’t want to just float along the currents like a rotten bog. My temperate rebelliousness had kicked into action. Thus, I decided to travel and laid foot on the soil of nine ports around the globe in four months on The Scholar Ship (TSS)—the perfect pace and place for me as a beginning explorer.

1.What did you hope to get out of The Scholar Ship before you stepped on board?

I was expecting The Scholar Ship (hereon known as TSS) to be a refreshing transition. I wanted it to help me break from the continuous and aimless pursuit of higher education. I realize later that pursuing the extra .01 on my GPA didn’t mean much unless I proportionately learn my share. Writing college application essays made me think about what I actually wanted, and at the time, it was to attempt something new and explore the world.

2.What was your first thought when you stepped on board the ship?

“Wow, this ship actually has the name of the program painted on the hull!” I was surprised with how big the program actually was. Being the inaugural voyage, TSS had no alumni I could chat with or share experiences with. I knew the program was to take place on a ship that would be sojourning nine ports around the world, but seeing the sides painted with that blue ship logo and name was what confirmed, in my mind, the reality of the program.

3.What was your biggest struggle on board?

My biggest struggle on board was getting used to the food during long-hauls. Although the menu always called the dishes a different name, most of the time the vegetables, meat and pasta looked the same. More than a few people had gastronomical problems because of the lack of fiber. I had to get used to it, though—you can’t restock in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

4.What was the first thing that came to mind when you first lost sight of land?

“Time to start meeting new people.” It didn’t even occur to me that I would be rocking on a ship for the next several months with no land in sight. I was so eager to adapt to the new environment that making friends was at the top of my list. Miraculously, it wasn’t hard at all getting to know people, especially with the lack of high-speed Internet, affordable phone service, and any TV.

5.What was the biggest sudden change of cultures you have experienced?

Returning home after traveling abroad really got me. Most expect to go through turbulence when transitioning to a new environment, but ignore the likelihood of “reverse culture shock.” Returning home, I suddenly left a dynamic, energetic and lively culture for a more grounded (literally) and slower lifestyle. In addition, my values and habits have also adjusted while at sea; explaining these differences to those at home have been quite the challenge. I became more culturally sensitive, and felt uneasy when I heard friends and family use racial slurs, discriminating jokes, or stereotypical descriptions. I became conscious of how much I previously worshipped US-American lifestyle and values, even though I had grown up in Taiwan. Upon returning, I learned to appreciate local culture, and sometimes felt disheartened when my friends and family would only want to eat “better, foreign stuff.”

6.What incident would you use to define the multiculturalism of The Scholar Ship?

In class the first day, our professor placed a cup on the table, and asked the class to describe it. My Mexican-American friend raised his hand and stated that it was a container that held liquids. A classmate from Shanghai said it was a translucent, hollow cylinder made of petro-derived, hydrocarbon structures sitting on a flat surface. A third Australian classmate said it was a tool to drink from. All descriptions were correct, and demonstrated linear and circular, direct and indirect communication styles that were characteristic of their cultures. The object had remained the same, but the answer was wholly different. If you don’t see that as multiculturalism, I don’t know what multiculturalism is.

7.What has living in an enclosed environment for 4 months taught you?

Being completely surrounded by water has taught me how to have a good time without shopping malls, cars, and restaurants. Instead, I’ve resurrected the old art of conversation. There is so much to learn from fellow human beings.

8.What virtue would you say was most cultivated over these 4 months?

Respect. It is an important value I had to actively apply when visiting all the countries and interacting with people from different cultural backgrounds. To me, respect entails a great amount of flexibility and open-mindedness. I may not completely agree with someone's lifestyle or opinion, but what position am I in to criticize or look down upon those things? Each culture is spectacular because of its suitability in the geographic region where it developed. For example, many non-Asians tend to be disgusted by the wide application of all animal body parts for food. Kill one pig and many Asians eat almost all the innards, skin, face, tail, and limbs. This dietary culture has developed as a result of limited resources, a history of instability due to warfare and overthrown dynasties, and the hard farm life most had to endure. Eating steak doesn’t mean one people are better than those who eat pork feet. Instead of saying “weird” when I encounter something new and unseen of, I at least say “interesting,” of course, with genuine interest.

9.Living with people for extended periods of time is difficult; how did you accomplish this?

Indeed, living with people in small, enclosed spaces is hard. I shared a ten square-meter room with no windows. What I chose to do was to spend as much time as I could on the deck, taking in the spaciousness and sun, and return to the room only to sleep. Whenever I felt irritated, I would stare at the sea and sort out my thoughts.

10.Sailors couldn’t wait to go ashore after long periods at sea; what do you feel about land?

I was excited to see land, but not desperate. I wasn’t too seasick to begin with, so the rocking and swaying at sea wasn’t so tormenting. Instead, I was eager to see land because it meant I could learn about a whole new culture. Seeing the Rock of Gibraltar reminded me about European naval and exploration traditions. Seeing the Panama Canal made me think about the concerns behind large-scale development and the consequent displacement of local peoples. The Galapagos Islands in Ecuador were an indication of the rich ecosystems indigenous cultures have been living in. Seeing land from the ship was like finding the key to a treasure box.